The Bahamas
The Bahamas
We arrived in the Bahamas November 8, after crossing the
Gulfstream and sailing along the south coast of Grand Bahamas most of the
night. At first light we reached the entrance to Luccaya and followed the
channel markers into the harbor and the customs office.
An extensive canal system branched out from the main harbor
and we dropped the hook in a well-protected anchorage in 10 feet of water. A strong low-pressure system was approaching
and we were happy to be in protected waters in our first foreign port.
Our highlight in
Luccaya was Oddliegh’s house. Hot and
hungry and looking for a restaurant in a rural neighborhood, we had the
profound embarrassment of stumbling into someone’s personal living room, thinking
it was a restaurant, and encountering two older people sitting at their dining
room table watching daytime TV. Turns
out no problem, Oddliegh had some sodas to sell. We sat on his porch for a
spell after declining to watch TV with him and his mother in law Beatriz. Oddliegh
called several relatives who lived nearby to unsuccessfully see if they
would cook us a meal. Being a former
chef, he decided to do it himself. He
and Beatrice spent an hour whipping us up a wonderful lobster and pepper sauté
with delicious coleslaw that will be one of the culinary highlights. How can one not love the people of the
Bahamas!
The Bahamas consists of hundreds of islands, and turquoise
waters teaming with aquatic life. We have seen turtles, sharks, rays, manatees,
all kinds of coral and colorful reef fish.
Our first month we have caught 4 mahi mahi , two tunas, one barracuda,
speared two lobsters, and found 4 conch. Needless to say we are eating well.
The colors never stops to amaze pink sunsets; orange skies, water
shifting from emerald green to turquoise to ultramarine blue and reef fish
splashed in neon. Houses and shacks in different states of disrepair throughout
the islands are painted in the same colorful pallet adding jolts of energy to
each community.
After 5 days in Luccaya, we set sail from Grand Bahamas for
the Berry Islands, a chain of islands 50 miles to the south–east. We spent time
in the small town of Harbor Cay and 4 days in a couple of near deserted islands
to the south. It was remote, with surge and strong currents that rocked us in
unprotected anchorages. At night the sky
was covered with stars and all you could hear was the distant surf crashing
against the corral. It was beautiful but unnerving.
A 45-foot catamaran was anchored in the same area and we got
to know Trish and Mike from British Colombia. We had dinners and played Scrabble
on their boat, which was like a palace compared to our little mono hull.
One of the highlights of the Berries was visiting Ma Flo’s
Conch Shack in Little Harbor. Ma Flo has passed, but her son Chester has
carried on. It sat on a bluff
overlooking the turquoise inlets and islands below. Reachable only by boat, the only settlement
on the island consisted of a number of shacks and outhouses in different stages
of disarray all belonging to Chester. The food was typical Bahamian fare; deep
fried conch and fish, coleslaw and french fries. With the view and ambiance
around us, it was a memorable meal.
With favorable winds we arrived in Spanish Wells, just north
of Eleuthra Island, the day before
Thanksgiving. We picked up a mooring ball
next the settlement, a fishing village and an organized, prosperous, mostly
white community dating back to the British Methodists in the 1700’s. We explored the area by foot and dinghy and
met a few of the 2000 inhabitants. Ferries, Cargo ships, pontoon boats and
every other kind of imaginable vessel passed like a parade day and night in
front of our mooring, where we became part of the local texture.
After a few days, Captain Kirt helped us pilot through the
treacherous reefs and shallows of Devils Backbone to Harbor Island, a two-hour
trip. Harbor Island hosts high-end tourism, mega yachts and a few scrappy,
transiting sailing boats such as ours. It is Paradise with an amazing pink sand beach,
beautiful architecture, and lush vegetation. The majority of the population is
black and the culture laid back and colorful.
We are currently anchored in the big bay in front of town. As
is typical for boat life, we do boat work most days but have plenty of time for
walks in town, swimming and snorkeling. Most importantly we are preparing for
Mika, Eric and our 9 month old granddaughter Axelia’s arrival from Sweden in
mid December. The three of them will sail with us in Exuma Islands for 7 weeks.
More about that
later.
Island Greetings from Ninni and Bill
Finally a new post! I can smell the sea breeze and taste the coch from here. 11 more days!
ReplyDeleteLåter jättehärligt. Kul att läsa din blog:)
ReplyDeleteKram från Marie
Spännande att läsa din blogg ! Här sitter jag inomhus och ser en svag sol försvinner bakom granerna.
ReplyDeletewonderful reading, wonderful imagining: it surely beats raking leaves here in C'ville
ReplyDeleteconchs and turqouise waters and white sand.... I can almost smell the ocean air. Enjoy
ReplyDelete