Casting off

Our 30000 mile passage from Galapagos to French Polynesia turned in to 22-days of reverie.   The undulating sea and the open sky allowed our sousl roam without constraints.   Our bodies settled in to the rhythm of the sea, staying up for three-hour watches at night, napping during the day, and spending a lot of time looking out over the ever-changing following seas. One day blended seamlessly in to the other like watercolors. The variety, beauty and complexity of waves and their interaction our vessel was spellbinding. Some broke in to white foam, droplets hanging in the air; some lifted us high on their crests propelling us downhill at 9 knots. Some slammed us hard on the side, making the hull shudder and the rigging screech. We learned to live our day-to-day lives holding on, rocking from side to side and in constant motion forward. Simple tasks like dishes, personal hygiene and cooking took mindfulness and planning.   Cooking we stayed strapped in by the stove, the pots

  The Islands of Tortoises is a constellation of 10 volcanic islets.   The area is still erupting and evolving, shifting towards the southwest.     The Galapagos has five inhabited islands but 97% of the land is designated as national park and must be visited with a park ranger.   Three Ocean currents intersect the area around the islands sustaining a rich marine life. Especially he cold Humboldt current affects the climate and the biodiversity. The currents and the environmental protection have created a haven for animals and animal lovers alike. The history of the Galapagos is volatile like its volcanic landscape. Whalers, convicts, pirates and luck seekers inhabited the islands until the 1950’s. Ecuador brought democracy to the islands in the 1970’s. There are few visiting yachts passing through the Galapagos these days, because of the expense and rigorous protocol of, fumigating, bottom cleaning and beauracracy. We jumped through all the hoops   with the help of our ag

After weeks of preparations at Shelter Bay Marina and transiting the Panama Canal, it was liberating to finally setting sail, a lovely 35 mile downwind, to Isla La Contessa in the Las Perlas Islands. We spent a few days preparing for our 850-mile passage to the Galapagos, studying the weather, putting new connectors on our solar panels, and discussing the weather some more.   There was wind in the forecast for the next few days and we decided to make a go of it. Sailing close to the equator the biggest worry is not having enough wind and tales from boats being stuck in doldrums played vividly in my mind, stories of madness, mutiny, madness, and demise.     Despite the dread of the doldrums morale was high as we set off with 18 knots on the stern and one reef in the main, the afternoon of February 18, 2019.   By midnight as we passed Punta Mala and the winds built to 35 knots with confused seas.   Miraj heaved back and forth running down wind under a handkerchief of a jib a