Cruising Jamaica
Jamaica is nutmeg and chili pepper mixed with loud rhythms
pounded from monstrous sound systems. It is the markets in downtown Kingston
bursting with color, people, and more pounding dance music. Jamaica is 350 miles of
coastline. Between Port Antonio and Montego Bay on the North Coast every cove
and beach is stolen by $800 a night
luxury bungalows or high-rise hotels. The cities are hijacked by traffic;
busses, route cars, taxis, trucks and cars, gushing relentlessly, making
walking a deadly endeavor.
Patois or Jamaican Creole wakes us at the Montego Bay Yacht
Club. Words hard and fast volley back and forth like pellets. A group of
fishermen are getting their fishing boats ready for the day, and boat workers jive
about lasts nights escapades.
The Yacht club is a classy local establishment hosting a mix
of cruisers, fishing vessels, and glass bottom boats. There is a dining room, a
bar, a swimming pool and a scent of
English colonialism. Two towering Cruise ships are docked a stone throw away,
dwarfing everything around them and airplanes zoom overhead carrying sun hungry
northerners.
Montego Bay is the
main tourist destination in Jamaica. We are not impressed by its urban sprawl,
shopping malls and traffic, but the refuge of the Yacht Club makes our stay pleasant.
The poverty is always close in Jamaica. Young men walk
between cars wanting to clean windshield, and everybody wants to make a dollar
showing you the way. In the larger cities,
Port Antonio, Ochos Rivers, Montego Bay and Kingston the desperation for
survival is palpable. Everybody is hustling offering his services and wares. I
buy spices and clothing I don’t need, overpay taxis and give to street hawkers
in a hopeless attempt to contribute to the local economy.
Jamaica has a reputation for crime and violence and we are cautious,
but never feel at risk. We take local transportation, route cars, throughout
the country and anchor in numerous coves along the North coast. We make sure to lock up the boat when we go
ashore for the first time since we left the US and there is always someone
willing to watch our dingy for a couple of hundred Jamaican dollars.
The best part of the four weeks we spend in Jamaica are our
visitors. Marie and Sven from Sweden
spend 10 days with us in Port Antonio and Oracabessa, and Greg and Kathy form
Charlottesville join us in Montego Bay for a two week stay.
We take the bus to
Kingston and ascend to the Blue Mountains where we have a wonderful stay at the
Blue Ridge Cottages at 3500 feet. This is when I fall in love with Jamaica. The
views are breathtaking, the flowering trees spectacular, and the people
relaxed. Coffee plants clamber to the hillsides, covered with white, small
flowers and green and red fruits. Coffee is big business and enjoying the local
brew enhances our experience further.
For our last stop in Jamaica we sail to Negril, on the west
coast. 7-mile beach is beautiful but packed with tourists. We are the only
cruising boat anchored in Long Bay, and as a matter of fact, we have only seen
two cruising boat along the North and West Coast these past three weeks. The
local fishermen and boat workers all notice our arrival and want to stow away
on Miraj. “Respect” they say and give us a fist bump.
As of April 2, after a 36-hour sail from Negril, we arrived at our new destination; Isla de Providencia, a small Colombian island outside Nicaragua, on our way to Panama.
Our next post will tell the tales from this beautiful, magical spot.
The picture of the Marlin has its own story to tell. Bill will post it ASAP
Sails filled with wind, water lapping the sides.... seeing the joy in my husbands face at the helm.... Mi’raj slips through the water and sat securely at its anchorage. Ninni and Bill fabulous hosts. Irie!
ReplyDeleteTake a group of 19th century English explorers, led by "man of his times" Captain Sir John Franklin played by CiarĂ¡n Hinds. A reckless glory hound hell bent on personal prestige, who revels in the narcissistic Nationalism of Britains golden age of empire. happy death day full
ReplyDeleteContrast this with the raw reality of black ice, a savage landscape and something more lurking in the wintry snow swept darkness. Its coldly creepy, atmospheric stuff, with a slow menace that adds depth to what is shaping up to be another excellent series from AMC. the devil's candy release date
Some have called The Terror survivalist horror. I'd call it "isolationist." There is no surety of survival and indeed, the overriding sense is not so much one of survival but of when and how, the key protagonists might die. In summary, a fantastic cast, wonderful visuals, great narrative and a brilliant story adapted from the novel of the same name by US author Dan Simmons watch Avengers: Infinity War free online