Passage from Panama to the Galapagos

After weeks of preparations at Shelter Bay Marina and transiting the Panama Canal, it was liberating to finally setting sail, a lovely 35 mile downwind, to Isla La Contessa in the Las Perlas Islands.

We spent a few days preparing for our 850-mile passage to the Galapagos, studying the weather, putting new connectors on our solar panels, and discussing the weather some more.  There was wind in the forecast for the next few days and we decided to make a go of it.

Sailing close to the equator the biggest worry is not having enough wind and tales from boats being stuck in doldrums played vividly in my mind, stories of madness, mutiny, madness, and demise. 

  Despite the dread of the doldrums morale was high as we set off with 18 knots on the stern and one reef in the main, the afternoon of February 18, 2019.  By midnight as we passed Punta Mala and the winds built to 35 knots with confused seas.  Miraj heaved back and forth running down wind under a handkerchief of a jib at 8-9 knots.

The winds calmed and the next 24 hours we sailed under full sail in 10 to 15 knots of North Easterly winds. Our first day average was whopping 175 nautical sea miles, a record.

 As expected the winds died down the following evening.  It was too early in our passage to run the engine and we spent the night drifting, propelled forward by a two and a half knot currant.  It was a magical night, gliding through calm waters enveloped by silence.  A giant pink full moon rose in the east and wales blew and splashed nearby.

As we crossed the equator, latitude 00, and performed a customary ritual to appease Neptune, dressing up and sacrificing personal treasures to the sea. I think it worked because the seas stayed calm.

The wind came and went. We flew the asymmetrical spinnaker on and off and moved towards our destination with the waning moon.

 About halfway two Red footed Boobies joined us. They spent the nights on the bow pulpit or on top of the solar panels, adding the task of cleaning guano in the mornings to our list of chores.


The day before we arrived we dropped our sails and jumped in to the water to scrub the green slime the bottom. The water, crystal clear, indigo, and ten thousand feet deep offered us an exhilarating swim.

Myth and history blended with the mist surrounding the mountains of San Christobal Island. Our 8-day passage was easier and quicker than expected. We arrived feeling rested and excited to go ashore to explore.




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