The Galapagos

 The Islands of Tortoises is a constellation of 10 volcanic islets.  The area is still erupting and evolving, shifting towards the southwest.   The Galapagos has five inhabited islands but 97% of the land is designated as national park and must be visited with a park ranger.

 Three Ocean currents intersect the area around the islands sustaining a rich marine life. Especially he cold Humboldt current affects the climate and the biodiversity. The currents and the environmental protection have created a haven for animals and animal lovers alike.

The history of the Galapagos is volatile like its volcanic landscape. Whalers, convicts, pirates and luck seekers inhabited the islands until the 1950’s. Ecuador brought democracy to the islands in the 1970’s.

There are few visiting yachts passing through the Galapagos these days, because of the expense and rigorous protocol of, fumigating, bottom cleaning and beauracracy. We jumped through all the hoops  with the help of our agent, Javier, and in the end it  was all worth it.  Who hasn’t dreamt of visiting the Galapagos?

 In  anchorage in San Christobal,  barking, braying, groaning and coughing sea lions surrounded us. They dove and splashed at all hours, sleek shadows gliding through the water. A nursing yearling and his mother snuggled when we arrived at the town dock.  Large males lay stretched out on benches on the pier and in town we saw one scooting along the main street looking for a shady spot.

We rented bikes and rode up to the dormant volcanic crater at the top of the island, walked around the adjacent bays and beaches and went on a boat tour in to the national park.  We saw Blue footed Boobies dance and whistle, Red footed Boobies nest in the bushes and Nasquar Boobies fly overhead. We swam with turtles, sea lions and Rays.

The animals on the Galapagos have no fear of people and it was a novel experience to get within a few feet of birds, lizards and sea mammals. I fluctuated between feelings of wonder,  intruding and walking though a theme park.

Our visa allowed us to stay for one month and to visit three islands, and after 10 days we sailed to our second stop, S;t a Cruz Island. It offered a bigger and busier harbor with a substantial swell.  Bill took a dive tour to the Seymore Island and saw Hammerhead sharks and we spent a day hiking to Tortuga Bay the most beautiful of beaches. At night we enjoyed the local cuisine of fresh grilled seafood and fish on a local backstreet.

Our last island to visit, Isabella, was the most quaint and least touristy. We visited Giant Turtles dug down in the mud, and hiked to the active volcanoes of Sierra Negra and Chica with a guide. The barren landscape of sculptural formations in earth tones was astounding. Plumes of smoke escaped the 6-mile wide crater. Iguanas, black and prehistoric blended with the hot lava rocks. They lay slumped over one another in immobile formations.

Our Pacific crossing to the Marquises loomed ahead and we started preparing ourselves mentally and physically for a month at sea. This was to be our longest passage and had been our goal all along.









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